torsdag den 30. september 2010

Spices

Got picked up by our guide after breakfast. Nice with a real morning and not having to pack the camp down. Drove the local spice plantation for a guided tour. Had a really good walk and was shown a lot of dfferent plant including cloves, nutmeg, ginger and 20 others. Fresh samples for everybody and after two hours some fresh fruit samples.
Got in the bus and just when we left we had a tropical rain shower for most of the 1 hour trip up north to Nungwe beach on the northern tip of the island.
Arrived at the bungalows, got the key to our room and after some inital confusion on who should sleep where we had a super room with a big bed, shower and toilet. Yes.
Took a walk on the beach and had some lunch.
Did afternoon drinks on the terrace of the resort with most of the group. Finally Africa had caught up with some of the other participants so in there was a handful of people who stayed in their rooms - close to the toilet. They missed a beautiful sunset. And some good food later on. We went to a nice place where we could have some food and a good view of the sea.

onsdag den 29. september 2010

Heading for Zanzibar

Got up pretty early. Had to leave camp and catch ferry across Dar port to catch a small bus to other ferry site where we would get on the slightly larger boat to Stone Town, Zanzibar. Based on the experience yesterday it would be another annoying commute in Dar.
The morning however started with a slightly new feature: Rain. It would be an exaggeration to call it a rain shower but something wet came from the sky this morning. But it didn't really matter. We would spent most of the morning getting to the boat and to Stonetown.
Everything went smooth this morning so we had almost a full hour before the boat for Zanzibar left to explore Dar. We chose to find a place where we could get a cup of coffee and some hard cash.
The boat left on time - more or less and headed full speed out the harbour. The Indian ocean gave us a nice choppy ride with some fairly big waves coming from the east so it was a bumpy ride.
We made it to Stone Town around 1 pm and had to go through immigrations even though Zanzibar is part of the republic of Tanzania. But it seems that some liberation movement is taking shape. Why contribute to the others on the mainland if you have a booming tourist industry yourself.
Got picked up by local guide and was taken to the Hotel in Stone Town for the night. There was a nice introduction to Zanzibar and the possibility to do a tour of the town with a guide. We chose to do our own little walk not caring about whether we would see all the sights and sounds on the list. Found a nice place for a late lunch right at the edge of the water and walked through the narrow alleys and streets of Stone Town.
Did a little bit of surfing the internet - it turned out that Zanzibar had the best internet connections since Swakopmund some weeks back in Namibia, so we got updated on news, weather and a few emails from home.
At 5 we made our way to the beach to watch the sun set and have a few drinks just enjoying our own company. No truck, none of the usual guys around us. Just a few other tourists and the locals. What a nce change.
In the water just in front of our bar were two big ships - old ro-ro boat designed to be sailed onto the beach for supplying remote islands. Sitting there enjoying the last rays of sunshine in the afternoon we also looked at the endless line of hardworking men and boys who were running to and from the ships loading them with all sort of items. Mostly big and heavy bales of something, fridges, freezers, tv-sets, furniture and everything imaginable. And they were in a hurry since they had to be ready when high tide was there. So for two hours we looked at them running back and forth in the sand.
Just when the ferry closed the ramp and backed out a handful of the guest from our bar got picked up in their private dinghy by a man in white uniform and were taken to their private yacht moored in the bay. Of all contrasts in the world in was probably one of top 3 ones in our life. Men working as hard as they could for hours, probably for a handful of dollars, us sitting there with our 5 dollar beers and then a group of people living in a different universe of private yachts, designers brands and more money to spend than most people will make in a lifetime.
Walked back to the hotel and headed for bed.

tirsdag den 28. september 2010

The long road to Dar

Last of the driving days for some days. Not really much to say about today. Got up at 4 in the morning to pack the camp and after a nice serving of hot porridge we headed out into darkness. Dawn hadn't really broken so it was pitch black. Did i forget to mention that is was a clear sky and we therefore experienced 11 degrees in the tent. Don't know the temperature in the sleeping bag but it didn't really feel that comfortable.
As the light began dimmer we could see beatiful mountains and less beautiful roads. More notably we could also start to see that we we're no longer in Malawi. Tanzania was a different country with towns with real buildings and some steps from Malawi - but still very Africa like.
The rest of the day was more or less endless driving, the climate changing from the dry, fresh air of the hills at the camp site to the humid, sticky, hot climate of the ocean. Finally reaching the city of Dar es Salaam at 4 in the afternoon only to be completely stuck in a two lane grid lock of what in Europe would be charactarised as rush hour traffic but here in Africa just boils down to traffic.  After being stuck in traffic for about an hour we made it to the port where a small ferry took us to the other side of the canal - we waited some time for the truck and was at the gate of the camp site at about 6:30 in the evening. Total distance travelled since 4 pm was about 10 kms. Walking would have been just as quick. Camp site also gave an impression of what Dar is. Sign on the gate, and on all the insides of the toilet doors clearly and exact stated: "Inside camp = safe; Outside camp not safe; This is not at joke, please respect it!!!!"
So we stayed in the camp and enjoyed a swim in the salt water pool before heading for dinner and a nice evening in the bar.
We've now been on the road for a full month. And it has been great so far. Lot's of great new experiences, many exciting places in Africa, some good people to hang out with.

mandag den 27. september 2010

Leaving Malawi

Goodbye Malawi. Left early in the morning for a full day of driving. Border crossing into Tanzania after a couple of hours. Nothing special from all the other crossings we've made so far. Driving through the countryside for hours just enjoying the views and looking forward to camp.
Arrived at the camp late in the afternoon - in the middle of nowhere. Put up tents and had to hurry hurry to get a shower since there was only solarpowered light in the showers.
Had dinner in the restaurant - very good soup and some local meat, nshima, veggies. Yummi. Had to go to bed early. Leaving early early in the morning. Came out of restaurant and realised that there were no clouds or artificial lighting to disturb the stars. The sky looked amazing.

søndag den 26. september 2010

The long hike to Livingstonia

Got up at 6. Had agreed with a Canadian couple to hike to Livingstonia - somewhere up in the mountains. On the sign in the village it said 15 km. How hard could that be. Based on our guides recommendation about "Bad men in the mountains we hired a local guide to do the walk with us. So we left at 7.
10 hours later we returned to camp. Having hiked at least 20 km. Our guide was pretty good with shortcuts and even though they were steep (both up and down) they helped shave some kilometers of the trip. How nice for once to be able to do some physical acitivity.
We got all the way to the top of the mointain - only to realise that it was on the next ridge that Livingstonia was, and that there was a valley between us and livingstonia. Very beautiful scenery, not to hot but very sunny the whole day. On our way back we to a swim in the waterfalls - and went all the way to the edge to see the highest waterfall in Malawi. Super.
Tired back at the camp it was time for dinner and for resting our feet. What a great day.

lørdag den 25. september 2010

Further up the lake

Left the camp at 8:00. Short drive to other end of lake. Did a short stop at the third largest town in Malawi - Mzuzu. Not more than a big village.
Crossed the mountains on some pretty steep and narrow roads before getting to camp site at 2 pm. Lunch and directly to the bar.
No power at camp site. Maybe at 6 tonight. Who knows. This is Africa. At least we have cold beers in the bar.

fredag den 24. september 2010

Village tour

Stayed at same camp site today so we could sleep a bit late. Had breakfast and spent all morning on the village tour going with the locals to see their village, the local school and the clinic. Finished with traditional lunch - soup and rice, beans and spinach. It was so good. Not so good was the 25 guys following us every meter trying to persuade us to buy all sorts of souvenir crap.
Back in the camp to relax and take an afternoon swim in Lake Malawi. Refreshing. Hanging out in the bar before we had dinner. Whole roadsted pig. Malene dressed like party girl and I like a pirate. Drinking fruit punch with the others and going to bed late.

torsdag den 23. september 2010

Arriving at lake Malawi

Got up early early. 4:45. Left camp site at 6:00
Border crossing into Malawi after a few kilometers. A few problems. Road blocked by truck. Or actually lots of trucks.
One the guys from the tour did not have the right stamps in the passport so there was some discussion with some of the borderpolice whether she should be let out of the country or put in prison.
Lilongwe was a standard third world country capital. Not too big. Dirty. Full of street vendors who wanted to sell us all sorts of ... crap.
Money exchange in the truck. Shopping for the coming days. On the way to lake Malawi again.
Arrived at the camp site late. Almost sunset. Put up camp. Most fantastic full moon rising over the lake. Sitting at the beach with Malene enjoying a bottle of chilled white wine before dinnner. What better way to relax after a long day in the truck.

onsdag den 22. september 2010

Passing through Lusaka

Woke up at 4:45 in order to prepare for a long day of driving - and be ready to leave camp at 6:00. First issue with being in Africa: No water in bathroom. So had to go back to truck and spent time packing instead of taking shower. Got all the practicalities in place incl. tents and personal stuff. Realised that there was now water in the showers. Excellent. Just time for a quick breakfast. Left camp at 6:00.
Heading through the capital it was easy to see that Zambia aren't among the most wealthy nations. The usual third world country inventory inlcuded some 70's style high rises that looked abandoned. A lot of small shops and the occasional street vendors. Some traffic even though it was early in the morning. Most flashy buildings seemed to belong to banks and insurance companies.
Heading out in the country side the scenery quickly changed since we passed through parts of rift valley so the drive today was suddenly very hilly, passed a big river before arriving at the town of Chipata. A fairly large place where we did some resupplying of gas, diesel, food, drinks - you name it. At the gas place they advertised with being the only place in the northern province where you could buy gas. I believe them. Found "Rom-kugler" in the local supermarket. What a nice treat af 12 hours on the road.
Camp site. Same same but... no but. Got to get ready for a long day tomorrow.

tirsdag den 21. september 2010

Back on the roads

Back in the rhythm again. Got up, packed tent, breakfast, left at 8 to go north into Zambia.  Just before breakfast was finished we got a visit from the elephants on the other side of the fence.
Quickly realising that we are now heading into the "real Africa". Things are starting to look at little more uncivilised. Most annoying feature - speed bumps. In order to keep things a bit organised and to prevent everybody from speeding the Zambians have adopted speedbumps 100%. Every now and then - be it in small towns, at rail crossings or just whenever somebody felt like it - there was speedbumps. Typically 6-9 of them across the entire road so you would also have the pleasure of them on the other side of whatever you passed by.
Apart from speedbumps we now passed through a lot of small villages, huts alongside the road and a lot of more or less open space "savana style". We arrived at the camp just outside the capital Lusaka in the afternoon. Since there was some game close to the camp we took a walk before the dinner but we ran into some buffalos just at the entrance and didn't feel like getting too close to them.
By the way: Haven't seen a single cloud for 2 weeks now. Only blue sky and sunshine.

mandag den 20. september 2010

Last day in Livingstone

These days of being in the  camp are amazing. It is so nice to just relax and do whatever we feel like. Today was also a very practical day. Picked up laundry. Now clean. Yes. Went to town and found the "Old Market". One of those funny african markets where you can by just anything. The first 10 stalls were full of blankets. Not the thin nice ones but some that could keep you warm during a cold russian winter. Did I forget to mention that it was now 10:30 in the morning and that it was now close to 35 degress and sunshine.
Found a couple of places on the market advertising for "Hair Salon". So since a haircut was on the to-do list I chose the one that looked....most authentic. Upon entering the salon I was greeted by my personal hair expert - Philippe. After some chit chat I decided on the ordinary gangster hairstyle "Plain 8 mm". The hair cut itself took some 4 minutes which included a nice disinfectant rubbed in the hair that smelled a lot like coolant for a car or truck. The burn wasn't so bad but I hope I'll not loose all my hair. The price = 4000 local money + 1000 tip = 1 USD.
The rest of the morning we spent at the local cafe with a nice cup of coffee, shakes, sandwich. They have free wifi so it was good to check up on the news, mails, blogs etc. Seems the world is doing ok even with our absence.

søndag den 19. september 2010

Relaxing in Livingstone

Woke up a bit early. We camp right next to the heliport and airstrip for the ultralights so at 7:40 the first ultralight take off and it's difficult not to notice them.
Breakfast and farewell hugs to those who are leaving. Todays practical thing: Laundry. Rested in the tent in the morning enjoying the good weather. A light breeze, shade under the palmtrees and as always - sunshine and 30 degrees from early morning. The nights are chilly though but around 8:30 in the morning you can really feel the sun. But we have learned to live with it.

Got on the 2 pm shuttle bus to a local cafe in town, walked back to the arts and crafts shop and listened to some local live band playing live music. The sun setting, nice and warm evening. A couple of cold drinks and some local food (goat and veggies).

Back to the camp site at 9. Yet another nice day. Have now been in Africa for 3 weeks. Really good so far.

lørdag den 18. september 2010

The great falls

Had a nice and quiet morning. Breakfast at the truck at 8 and then some practical things to take care of. Signed up for the 10 am shuttle bus to town. Got dropped of in the center of town next to the post office and went to see the souvenir shops. Had to do handshakes with most of Africa and say no to everything offered. Malene played Mkala with one of the guys at the market. Walked around town and looked at the people, shops, everything. Found a nice place for a morning cup of coffee (good) and a scone. Went to see the vegetable market before we got a taxi to Victoria Falls.
Had a really nice wak there seeing the falls from the Zambian side. Not the best viewpoint but going to Zimbabwe would be an extra USD 30 pr person plus transport. We're not that hooked on waterfalls. Back to town to do some shopping and back to the pool to have late lunch and some cold drinks. So nice with a day away from the group, the truck and just experiencing some life in town with time to reflect a bit about the journey so far.
Three weeks into the trip and we have seen and experienced so much. Farewell dinner tonight since 10 from the group will leave tomorrow and Monday.

fredag den 17. september 2010

Crossing into Zambia

Left Chobe to catch the ferry across the river early in the morning. Ferry is perhaps an exaggeration - barge with engine is perhaps a better description. The river is perhaps 400 m wide. First obstacle - getting an exit stamp in the passport in Botswana. That was done in a couple of minutes. Then it was just a matter of waiting - and luck. The last also the most important.
There was a loooong row of cars and trucks wating at the riverbank but for some unknown reason our truck was allowed to jump the queue and get to the front. Just one problem. A roadtrain trying to get on the ferry had broken down on the ferry ramp and a couple of guys ran around with a fire extinguisher looking a bit surprised. As always in Africa that also ment that some 15 other guys were standing close to the action just looking and commenting. After a while they got the truck on the ferry and it left.
Next small problem - 4 ferries were supposed to operate on the river but only 3 were visible, 1 of them seemed totally abandonned, and the last one on the other side of the river were sending some concerning smoke signals. So instead of going in our direction it was emptied of trucks and shut down the engine. Down to one ferry we waited for another ½ hour before it was our turn to cross. Got the entry stamp in the passport for Zambia, driver took care of paperwork for the truck and we left the ferry place at 9:30.
Got to the campsite and put up tents before lunch. Really nice place with pool, close to the river, bar - civilisation.  Had dinner in restaurant at real table - yes !

torsdag den 16. september 2010

River crusin' in Chobe

Left Baobab world early in the morning on the way to Chobe national park. Saw some elephants on the way grasing near the road. Got pulled over by the police again. This time for no apparent reason.
Had a very good afternoon cruise on the river for 3½ hours where we got really close to buffalo's, crocs, hippos, birds - and elephants. Enjoyed the sun setting on the river and went back for dinner in the camp.

onsdag den 15. september 2010

Back to civilisation

Did the reverse trip back from the bush camp. Left the island early in the morning and spent the next 3 hours in the Mokoros - then 45 minutes in a boat. Packed the truck and then on the road north towards the campsite called "Baobab" world. A camp site with some nice baobab trees - and a great pool.
Got pulled over by the police. The truck driver not wearing setbelt. But after some discussion and an excuse that the seatbelt was working/not-working on some days we headed to camp. Had to do a short trip back to pick up t-shirt the flew out the window of the bus.

tirsdag den 14. september 2010

Water, water and lots of water

Up for early breakfast followed by 3½ hours walk on the island with our guide. We saw a few Zebra, Wilderbeest and an elephant and stalked a Giraffe on our way back to camp. She had spotted us some 25 minutes before we saw her.
The brave - among them Malene - tried their skills as Mokoro boats men. After lunch we went swimming. Not the back place the guides found for us - a bit shallow - but it was without too many crocs and hippos. And the water was clear and 27 degrees. Headed back to camp and out in the Mokoros at 4 to go on a small sunset cruise in the delta. Found a small pond with a solo hippo. He wasn't too happy about our presence and being in a small canoe we didn't go to close. Headed back to the camp for a nice evening with more campfire and the guides singing local songs for us.

mandag den 13. september 2010

Heading into the wilderness

Up - not too early though - to pack everything for the delta trip. Tents, matrasses, our own personal stuff, chairs, the kitchen and the kitchen table, cool boxes. Everything but the truck. Had a nice boat trip on the river to the Mokoro's - about 25 minutes. Got off the boat and found our Mokoro driver.
Spent most of the morning going up the delta sitting 15 cm from the water just enjoying a very pristine part of nature. Birds, elephants, spiders, frogs - all very close to us. Got to the camp site at around 12:30, put up tents, unpacked and got the instructions about using the bush toilet. Some of the other guys looked quit scared :-)
Spent the next couple of hours relaxing before going on the sunset walk with the local guide. Didn't see the many animals but had a great time anyway. Came back to the camp and a big fire. Had sausages and the local African maize porridge for dinner. Really good. Listened to the 200.000 frogs before falling to sleep.

søndag den 12. september 2010

Heading to Okawanga delta

Up early and through the usual breakfast routine. On the road towards Maun where we'll stay in the Okawanga delta for a couple of nights.
Had to get out of the truck on our way there due to floodings. The bridge was washed away so there was a little detour and the guy at the makeshift bridge wasn't too happy with us in the truck crossing the water so we walked and the truck crossed a minute later.
Arrived at the camp site, put up the tents and had a quiet afternoon while many of the other guys did the delta flight. The delta is the size of Switzerland so they didn't see it all :-)
Dinner and a nice evening close to the water. The local guide came after dinner and informed a bit about the trip into the Delta and some practicalities. It's going to be exciting.

lørdag den 11. september 2010

Going to Botswana

Breakfast at 7. Not really hungry after having eaten a 1 kilo game knuckle last night. Still having the meat sweat.
On the road towards Botswana at 7:30. Border crossing, paperwork, waiting for exit- and entry stamps in passport at two offices. Boring. Arrived at new lodge at 3, put up tents. The afternoon reserved for bush walk with local guides. But they were shopping in local town so we relaxed in the tent until 17:30.
Had a super walk with some native guys who showed us a lot of their local bush skills, digging for roots, making fire and explaining a lot about how the different leaves and roots were used for medicine, water and lots of other things. Back to the camp for a cold beer. Had a short explanation from the owner of the place - a very nice lady from South Africa who told us about her agreement with the native people and how their had a nice agreement with the guided tours, how different members of the tribe came and went due to their nomadic nature. So nice with some positive stories now and then. She really liked Botswana.
Dinner in the open as usual and then in the tent for some sleep.

fredag den 10. september 2010

Windhoek

Yes, if you've guessed it the morning routine was the same as usual. Left the camp site at 7:00 towards the capital of Namibia - Windhoek - some 3 hours away. So nice with the roads with tarmac where it is not so bumpy. Very quiet in the truck in the morning - just enjoying the nice sunrise and the hills and all the colors.
Had a short pitstop to refill the truck and went straight to a big mall near our lodge. So there was a couple of hours where we could do shopping. In our case that was to go to the local laundromat a wash some clothes. Not a lot but anyways nice to have done when the opportunity is there. The other guys handed in their laundry for "full service" but the nice lady at the laundromat told us that it would only take 1½ hours DIY-style so we paid for a couple of machines, picked up some lunch at the supermarket next door and sat in the sunshine on the parking lot and enjoyed a nice take-out lunch.
Arrived at the lodge at 2 pm, got a nice room and went straight to bed :-) Nice afternoon nap and then internet for an hour. Very slow but managed to upload a few pictures and realise that 21 of 22 mails were "junk".  Shower, recharging stuff, repacking backpack, clean clothes and on to the local meat restaurant. Today is the first of the "changing" days so were saying goodbye to 4 and hello to 5 new participants on the truck.
Had a "Game Knuckle" at the big meat place - Malene had mixed game grill. Very nice. Why does Zebra taste like wet horse??? Home and to bed.

torsdag den 9. september 2010

Waterberg hike

Got up, packed the camp, went back to the lions. They were still in the same spot as yesterday. Maybe they would be trying their luck at the same spot once more. The jackals had taken the sorry remains of the lions meal from yesterday and dragged it some 20 meters away. But there was nothing left of it now. Only the spine, ribs and cranium was there. Everything else was sold out.
Left Etosha and headed southwest towards our next destination. Waterberg national park. Not so big as Etosha but more hilly so the terrain looks very different. Had a short pitstop on the way here so we could resupply in the supermarket. Arrived at the camp site just before lunch. Went on a small hike to the top of the Waterberg plateau where there was a great view of the surrounding area - that is completely flat. Saw a big group of baboons at the top of the mountain. A short hike down to the camp site and the a swim in the pool in the afternoon when we came back from the hike, dinner - another nice day in Namibia.
Waterberg - as the name indicates - is a natural source of water so it was ok to drink from the tap. What a pleasant change from all the bottled water.

onsdag den 8. september 2010

All the way to Etosha

Got up early - this seem to be a repeating theme on this trip. Had breakfast in the dark, went to the waterhole but there weren't really any animals. Packed the camp and went for an early morning game drive. So many animals here and there. Took a ton of pictures on the way to next camp site at the other end of Etosha.
Arrived early enough for an afternoon drive and found a group of lions who had had a kill just earlier that day. You could see they had the meatsweat because they had already eaten most of the springbok that they had killed. They didn't care too much about our presence and there was a really good oppotunity to take pictures of the lions, some giraffe and zebras. Went back to camp. Had dinner - good night.

tirsdag den 7. september 2010

Truck breakdown

Back in the camp rythm again. Got up at 6. Pitch dark morning so packing all our stuff and tent with the headlamps on. Went to the bush shower and had a fresh morning shower before breakfast. And when the sun got up we were on the way north towards Etosha national park.
Bumpy roads for the first hour and then in the middle of nowhere we stopped. Not unusual since we occasionally do that whenever our driver spots wild animals. However here was absolutely nothing. After a few minutes we realised that the truck had broken down. Not only that. We had lost a piece of the mechanism that is used for the clutch, sowhere down the road. So it looked like a day in the dusty desert waiting for somebody to rescue us. Irv got the bright idea of walking back on the unpaved road to try to look for the 15 cm piece of metal that was now missing on the truck. I followed him and I found the thingy some 700 meters from where we had stopped. Great success. We were on the road again within an hour but we had to do an unplanned stop at the next big town to find a garage to get a better bolt and nut than the one that had to be improvised where the truck broke down.
So after an hour or so we stopped in a new copy of Germany, went to the local "Bäckerei" and ordered Apfelstrudel. A good one indeed. On the road after an hour and then we arrived in Etosha National Park in time for setting up the camp and doing a short drive in the park looking for animals.
That was great. Saw lots of animals incl. rhino and lions, giraffes and springboks, wilderbeest and tons of birds. Came back to the camp after dark and had a nice dinner. Went to the waterhole just next to the camp and saw more rhinos in the dark incl. baby rhino. Later the elephants came to drink, a few zebras and after an hour or so we went back to the tent to sleep.

mandag den 6. september 2010

Ancient graffiti

Got up and had breakfast at the truck around 9, left Germany, sorry, Swakopmund and drove north. The campsite wasn't that far away, so we arrived early, put up the tent, had lunch and left for the highlight of the day. A trip to famous Namibian engravings done by the bushmen a few thousand years ago. Climbed the rocks in the afternoon with the group and a local guide and enjoyed the many engravings and Twyfelfontein.
Back to the camp site for a real BBQ dinner, enjoyed the fireplace after dinner and just relaxed in the warm evening breeze.

søndag den 5. september 2010

Wonderful Germany

Sunday. Time to hang out and do nothing. Stayed in bed with Malene until 12 and had a very slow start on the day. Agreed that it was good to have a day off from our vacation. If that is possible. So since we not really doing anything today it might be a good idea to write a few lines about the place we are in.
Swakopmund is not that far from 100% Germany.  Yesterday we had a late lunch at a place where the menu was in German, and translated to English for the poor tourists.  We could chose from a lot of different items on the menu incl. Eisbein, Jausenplatte and Schnitzel. And they served icecold German beer. And that was just one of many similar places in town. Walking around you noted streets like "Brückenstrasse" and the list just continues. The most memorable was a place where you could buy all sorts of German memorabilia. I'm sure they also kept a copy of "Mein kampf" somewhere in that shop. Did I forget to mention that the supermarkets had a really wide selection of Wurst.
Apart from that the town was more or less abandonded. Or so it felt. Wide streets, relatively few cars and even fewer people. Of course it was sunday but it didn't feel like a place where some 50.000 people lived.
The highlights of our day off included super breakfast at the "Garden Cafe", a walk on the pier enjoying the ocean, a trip to the local cinema to see "Toy Story 3" - and beer and pizza to finish the day. Excellent. And right back to the A-house for a good nights sleep in the real bed.

lørdag den 4. september 2010

Heading North

Back on the road again. Up at 6, to a very nice morning with lot's of sunshine. All the packing done, time for some breakfast and leaving the campsite in the truck at 7. Bumpy roads for an hour or so, arrived in Solitaire - in the middle of nowhere. Appearently some guy went by this place some years back, liked the applepie and wrote at book: The long way down. Now it is a "tourist destination" so we had to stop there as well and have applepie for breakfast :-) It was ok, but I keep on wondering where in the desert they grow all the apples. :-)
On the truck again and on some fairly bumpy roads for 3 more hours only stopping at a small mountain pass to take some pictures of a fairly dry and rocky landscape. Arrived in Swakopmund around 1, went directly to the activity booking place with the group and decided to do nothing tomorrow.
The on to our accomodation: A-frame houses. Very nice with room for 6 pax. 4 on the first floor and two at the ground floor. Small kitchen, bathroom. Almost civilised.
Swakopmund. Well that's a totally different story. So German that you feel like walking in the main street and doing a few "Heil" every now and then.  More about that tomorrow. Now well just hang out and have dinner with the group.
1700 km's done so far. 8300 left before Nairobi. That's at least the plan. Right now it is just time to relax. Did I forget to mention how NICE it is to have a real bed to sleep in.

fredag den 3. september 2010

Dawn in the desert

The good news: We stayed at the same camp site today so no packing of tents and bumpy bus for 6-7-8-9 hours. The not so good news: Had to get up at 4:45 am to be on our way to dune 45 (45 km from the camp site) to climp the giant pile of sand to see the sun rise in the desert. Got there in no time thanks to warp-speed-driving guide.
Realised that dunes can be up to 350 meters tall - after that the wind gets too strong and it stays at that hight for some centuries. Anyway, our dune 45 was only a baby. A mere 150 meters tall, so at 6 in the morning I, Malene and some 40 other unlucky souls climbed a steep version of Himmelbjerget - only with the nice added feature that was had to do it in loose sand.
Got to the top, saw the sun rise (nice) and went down to the truck for a nice egg/bacon breakfast and watch the sun rise further and further over the desert constantly changing the shades and colors. That was the best breakfast in memory.
Drove a bit further into the desert to meet up with mr. Bushman for a two hour guided walk in the desert. He was a real example of somebody who's just perfect for his job. Small energetic man in the 50's. Real ranger type who was just made for the desert. He was always running. We were walking. After 10 minutes in standing with the rest of the group on a truck ! we made it to the "flain". Dried out riverbed that floods every 10-15 years. And the we went walking with mr Boesman. Got the entire history on the dunes. How sand is blown hundreds of kilometers from the shore to the desert where it settles in these nice piles of redish mountains. How the animals adapted to the environment and most importantly how people had lived there until the early 1900's as hunters and gathers. How the bushmen had been able to sneak as close as 5 meters to their prey, shoot it with a poison arrow and then eat the eye-balls, drink the blood and up to 10 kilos of meat in one single meal !
Being in the desert with mr. Boesman was an avalanche of information. Too much to mention here. He found a spiders nest buried under the sand. A spider the dug a 20 cm deep tunnel and made a velcro-like door at the top to keep sand out. So he gently opened the door and put some sand in the hole. Within a few seconds a couple of black legs emerged and the door was shut by the angry inhabitant. Amazing. Went back to the camp, had lunch, hung out, had the camp shaken a bit by a dirt devil that went right through the camp in 10 seconds. Luckily our tent was closed.  Went to the pool and slept there for a couple of hours while the sun was getting close to the horizon. Had a cold beer and headed for dinner. It's hard to travel.
Will go to bed shortly. Tomorrow is packing day leaving for Swarkopmund where we'll stay in small houses for 2 nights.  Temporary break from the tents. Yes. This is sooooo nice.

torsdag den 2. september 2010

Early early morning

Got up really early. 5 am. Breakfast and everything ready at 6. Ready for 11 hours on the bus going north in the Namib desert. Not much to say - but who put all that sand around here? Had a few technical breaks to get some water, fuel for the truck etc. Guide forgot wallet at one stop. Had to go back ½ hour to get it.
Very bad road conditions made the trip somewhat bumpy. Arrived at camp site at 4 in the afternoon. Time to put up tent, get familiar with the place and it turns out the have a pool - in the middle of the desert. So we went for a swim in the sunset. Very nice. A few cold beers, some good food and now on my way to bed. Getting ready for desert walk at 5 in the morning to see the sun rise over dune 45. That's going to be spectacular - I've been told at least.
In other news. Nearly half way through "Dark Star Safari". Africa truly is a rotten continent.

onsdag den 1. september 2010

Vacation is wonderful

Woke up to a beautiful morning. Decided to try to sleep some more, but the canoing team got up early to leave for their 4 hour canoe trip at 7:55 and since they had breakfast right next to our tents it was impossible to stay asleep. Laying there in the backpack listening to the birds, realising that anywhere else is a workday....hard to feel anything but happy. Got up to a nice breakfast at the truck, looking forward to a quiet morning. We're not supposed to leave until 11 when the canoeing team is back so we have all morning to just hang around and do nothing. I could stay here for some days - no problem, but Namibia is also going to be a good experience so we better get moving.
Arrived at our camp site at 3 in the afternoon. Put up tents and had 50 minutes before departing to the canyon. The road here was long and dusty and immediately after leaving the border post we hit the dirt roads. Not that they are that bad but the are certainly one step down compared to paved roads. And there is this smell of dust in the truck all the time. Funny thing - leaving South Africa also meant changing to UK time at the border...
Fish River canyon was great. 5 km from the camp site. Driving there with the truck and was kicked out at the end of the world. Had a great overview of the canyon. Walked back to the truck and watched the sun set. That was a beautiful experience. Went back with the truck to have dinner at the camp site. Tomorrow leaving at 6 - must get up at 5 and pack the tent. Better get to bed now.